You see mostly women sitting on stools and rolling pastry out thinly to cook on a round metal grill (saç) that looks like an upturned wok everywhere in Istanbul. Usually they’re making gözleme, a flatbread pancake with savoury fillings, such as cheese and spinach, which are then folded over into a cigar shape or rolled up tightly into a cone and cooked on both sides. Commuters rushing to catch ferries to their Bosphorus homes love this snack. I use a brilliant large, flat, round cast-iron griddle to cook the gözleme that you can buy in Indian shops, or you can find the more cumbersome saç in Turkish shops.