It might seem strange to include a recipe for taramasalata, given that it is available just about everywhere these days. But sadly, the plastic tubs of lurid pink gloop sold as taramasalata bear scant resemble to the original version. In its true form, it is a creamy smooth, pinky golden purée, tangy with garlic and lemon juice, and bursting with flavours of the sea. And it couldn’t be easier to make, requiring nothing more than a little blitzing in a food processor. When you’ve tasted the light, fluffy and far subtler homemade version, you’ll never buy it ready-made again!
Tarama itself is the salted preserved roe of grey mullet (commercial versions are often made from the less expensive cod’s roe) and comes as a very firm, hot-pink paste. Avoid any that seems to have an orange tinge, as it is likely to be bitter. I used to rinse the tarama to remove some of the excess salt, but it is rather fragile, and I’ve come to the conclusion that rinsing is not really necessary.