Breakfast

Breakfast

By
Jorge Fernandez and Rick Wells
Contains
5 recipes
Published by
Hardie Grant Books
ISBN
9781784880118

Starting the day

Soho is rightly known for its night-time activities, but arguably the best time to be there is at the crack of dawn. Part of what drew us to the café on Beak Street was the sunrise over Great Pulteney Street viewed from the front window, before Soho awakes and the steam from the coffee machine casts silvery shadows on the old wood panelled walls. There’ll be a few early birds about: the cleaners, the delivery vans distributing bread, milk, fruit and veg, and around the corner on Berwick Street the market traders begin to set up their stalls.

To set the tone for the trading day, the shop fronts are swept and washed down, continental-style, while inside the counter display is prepared and the all-important process of ‘dialling in’ the coffee machine takes place to ensure the first customer through the door at 7.30 am will enjoy a coffee exactly as it should be.

A day in the life of Fernandez & Wells starts a lot earlier for the kitchen, which, like every household, is the heart of the enterprise. There they look forward to the arrival of the barista for their treat of a first coffee of the day. As the local streets come to life, the sandwiches, cakes and other provisions are delivered by car or bicycle depending on the site.

As the first customers arrive, breakfast officially gets underway. Firm believers in the importance of a good breakfast, my favourite Fernandez & Wells combination is Egg mayonnaise and black pudding in a bun with a pot of strong Barry’s Irish tea. Jorge prefers a toasted ham, cheese and tomato croissant and a ‘Stumpy’. Other options include the Fernandez & Wells porridge, which is made simply with Flahavan’s Irish oats and milk (or water for the purists), and garnished with honey and nuts; eggs fried in olive oil with sourdough toast and thinly sliced cecina, the air-dried beef speciality of León (see Khlia-style fried eggs); and the toasted Banana loaf with Italian butter has legions of followers.

Recipes in this Chapter

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