This is a step-by-step guide to the best way of making couscous. It’s a bit fiddly and requires that you eschew such blasphemies as quick-cook couscous. But with this method, each grain will lift and separate just like a Playtex bra. No clumps, no sogginess. So, this weekend, have a go at making couscous from Northern Africa. I’ve combined it here with spices, and sweet and sour flavours. The idea is to reproduce that Middle Eastern vibe of fruity acidic tastes in a savoury dish. If you don’t have dates or dried apricots, use sultanas; if you can’t find nibbed pistachios, use almonds; you can riff on my recipe. Enjoy with the tagine opposite and a heavy Middle Eastern wine, such as Sidi Brahim.