I love climbing mountains, the satisfaction coming not only from reaching the summit but, more importantly, from that sense of freedom in being among the hills and away from it all. While in France, I loved climbing in the alpine ranges, stumbling across alpine goats and sheep and the occasional herder living self-sufficiently in the hills and who, when asked, would invariably share some amazing cheese he had made. I continued climbing in Spain, and Victor and I would take to the mountains on the day the restaurant was closed. As well as being an escape from the grill, it brought us both back to nature with a greater understanding and appreciation of our local environment and the many ingredients that were growing around us.
My climbing took me to Argentina, where I had a strong desire to climb Aconcagua, the highest mountain in South America. At 6962 metres (22,841 feet) above sea level, it was quite an expedition with the walk into base camp taking several days. I was struck by the open pampas and the lifestyle of the gauchos who accompanied us. While we had our tents and expensive equipment, they gathered sticks and built a fire. The fire would bring them together; they gathered to cook various cuts of meat: lamb, goat or beef. I was drawn by the activity as much as the fire, so I sat with them drinking the peculiar brewed herb mate while they recounted stories from their lives.
The Argentinians favour a wood from the quebracho tree because it smokes very little. Quebracho is also one of the hardest woods in the world; its name is derived from the Spanish phrase ‘quebrar hacha’, meaning ‘axe breaker’, giving an indication of how difficult it can be to harvest. However, the density means that it burns very slowly over a long period of time, making it ideal for cooking whole animals for several hours.
Of course asado, the name given to this style of cooking, is not limited to Argentina and can be found in several other countries and regions including Patagonia, Chile, Paraguay and Brazil, as well as Spain and Portugal.
Though lamb is mostly favoured, the spit roasting of goat goes back to the time of Virgil and may well be the earliest documented example of cooking an animal over fire. It is a timeless method, but one where the animal required continuous turning to ensure it is evenly cooked. The Argentine iron cross (asado cross), a large metal structure used to hold the carcase while it is cooking means you don’t have to turn the goat continuously, as it is vertically splayed and positioned adjacent to the fire to cook slowly. The angle of the animal and its distance from the fire is adjusted in increments.
Cooking a whole animal over fire should be done slowly and cannot be rushed. The process renders the excess fat and results in succulent meat within and a caramelised crust on the exterior. The length of the process means patience is paramount – but the results are worthwhile.