Although this recipe is traditionally made with horsemeat in Puglia, we have changed the main ingredient to beef. Cavallo, as horsemeat is known in Italian, is widely eaten in Puglia. Lean and high in iron, it was once regularly prescribed for pregnant and anaemic people. In the narrow cobblestoned lanes of my hometown, Corato, there is an abundance of macellerie equine or equine butcheries. I can hear Mamma’s voice asking me to go and buy horsemeat sausages, which were freshly made in front of my wide eyes. The horsemeat was minced and seasoned to order and sausages were deftly tied into clumps and wrapped securely in brown butcher’s paper.