Kalogria, Stoupa and Inner Mani

Kalogria, Stoupa and Inner Mani

By
Lyndey Milan
Contains
15 recipes
Published by
Hardie Grant Books
ISBN
9781742702704
Photographer
Chris Chen

While the Mani is a region with a reputation for fierce warriors, we found it to be a hidden gem of gorgeous scenery and beaches, made all the more special as it was home to our fabulous researcher, Pam. Through her we met her friend, Dimitris, not only a tavern owner, but a very proud fisherman. He took us out on his boat to show us an extraordinary natural phenomenon: a freshwater spring that comes down from the mountain tops and surfaces about 100 metres offshore. Ever the water baby, Blair dived straight in and was surprised both by how cold the water was and how buoyant as the spring water rose to the surface. It was just the thing to stimulate his appetite, so we were off to To Palio Bostani, Dimitris’ taverna to learn the secrets of kakavia, the traditional Greek fishermen’s soup that was a precursor to French bouillabaisse.

Dimitris surprised us by arranging for us to learn Greek dancing on the beach where the real Zorba the Greek had danced all those years ago. Blair thought he had learned the zeibekiko previously but this was the real deal and he delighted all with his enthusiasm and talent. We wished we could have stayed longer.

Morning found us at a local gypsy market where we could shop before eating our best breakfast ever: whole roast pig bought from a massive wooden trolley right out on the street. A man with a huge cleaver chopped so close to his hand I had to look away but it was delicious, especially the crackling.

The next day we took a boat trip through the underground of Diros, a beautiful spot, like a movie set and incredibly peaceful. Then I met up with Dimitris’ mother and other village ladies to make diples. I was glad to be in the kitchen rather than with Blair hiking down a gorge in the heat. He revelled in the silence though he really needed some help with his mapreading skills.

Featured Recipes in this Chapter

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