I love to shape shortbread into petticoat tails. According to legend, the recipe was brought from France by Mary, Queen of Scots. Its French name, ‘petits gateaux tailles’, means ‘little cakes cut off’. The name came to be pronounced as it sounded to the Scots and English – ‘petticoat tails’. But the real Highland Scot didn’t do any of this. They just put the shortbread on the table and you simply broke it. That was the proper thing to do. Whichever way you make it, if you get it just right, people love it.