Lovage-cured salmon on rye with remoulade

Lovage-cured salmon on rye with remoulade

By
From
The Tivoli Road Baker
Serves
4
Photographer
Bonnie Savage and Alan Benson

Lovage is a herb that you find growing in hedgerows in England. It’s lovely and refreshing, with notes of celery seed and parsley. In Cornwall they make an alcoholic lovage cordial, which is drunk mixed with brandy. It is the perfect tonic for a cold Cornish evening. We always have a bottle in the cupboard to drink during the winter months. Good garden shops will sell lovage plants, or you could try a good greengrocer or farmers’ market. If you can’t find fresh lovage, you could use a combination of dill, tarragon and parsley.

Ingredients

Quantity Ingredient

Lovage-cured salmon

Quantity Ingredient
65g lovage leaves, picked
65g flaked sea salt
55g caster (superfine) sugar
zest and juice of 1 lemon
4 black peppercorns
2 juniper berries, crushed
1/2 side salmon, pin boned and skin on

Remoulade

Quantity Ingredient
240g kohlrabi
100g crème fraîche
100g see method for ingredients
1 teaspoon caraway seed, toasted and roughly chopped
4 teaspoons capers
a few sprigs each of tarragon, dill and chives, roughly chopped
zest and juice of 1/2 a lemon

Assembly

Quantity Ingredient
8 slices 100% rye sourdough
1 punnet mustard leaves, washed and dried
extra virgin olive oil, for drizzling
freshly cracked black pepper, to taste

Method

  1. To cure the salmon, put the lovage into a blender with 10 g (¼ oz) of the salt. Blend until the lovage is broken up and the salt mixed through. Transfer the lovage to a bowl with the remaining salt, sugar, lemon juice and zest, peppercorns and juniper berries, and mix to combine.
  2. Pour half of the cure mixture into a non-reactive tray or plastic container that is large enough to contain the fish, and spread it over the base. Place the fish on top, skin side down, and gently rub the remaining cure mix over the salmon, packing it on top. Cover with a lid or plastic wrap and refrigerate for 24 hours.
  3. The next day, gently turn the fish over. Rub any curing mix that has fallen off back into the flesh. You will find that some liquid has been drawn out of the fish – this is nothing to worry about; it just becomes part of the cure. Cover or wrap again, then refrigerate for another 24 hours.
  4. The next day, remove the salmon from the fridge and gently rinse it under cold running water, just to remove the curing mix. Pat it dry with kitchen towel, and it’s ready for slicing. Use a long sharp knife to cut slices horizontally across the surface of the fish.
  5. Prepare the remoulade on the day you are serving. Peel the kohlrabi and cut it into matchsticks. Combine the crème fraîche and mayonnaise in a small mixing bowl and stir together. Add the caraway seeds, capers, tarragon, dill, chives, lemon zest and juice, and kohlrabi, and mix with your hands until everything is evenly coated. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
  6. To assemble, lay out the slices of bread on the bench. Divide the remoulade evenly over the slices, and spread it out to cover. Place a small handful of mustard leaves on top the remoulade, then lay thin slices of salmon over the top. Finish with a drizzle of olive oil and some freshly cracked black pepper to taste.

BAKERY NOTES

  • You need to start this recipe two days ahead to cure the salmon. You can also use ocean trout, if you prefer. If you have any left-over cured fish, it’s great in salads or sandwiches.

    If you prefer a lighter rye bread, this is also lovely on multigrain. And if you can’t get mustard leaves, any small, lightly bitter leaves would be great to finish this dish.
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