If you think raita is just a cooling salad, then think again. I certainly had to when a cousin sent me an intriguing menu that she recently served on an important birthday in Kolkata (Calcutta). Forget the humble cucumber, try adding fresh prawns (shrimp) instead. This recipe works just as well with fresh oysters, mussels, crab meat or, my personal favourite, fabulously sweet rock lobster (crayfish). Make a summer meal with steamed basmati or other long-grain rice and a leafy green salad.