There are two cuts of wild rabbit meat: the legs, which require a few hours braised over low–medium heat; and the backstrap tenderloin, which can be tenderised and cooked quickly in a frying pan. If I have a successful night hunting, I’ll butcher out the tenderloins and reserve them for a meal such as this. I’m so used to rabbit meat that I like to add flavour to make it a bit more exciting. I don’t think they taste gamey at all – in fact, they can be a bit bland, like a chicken breast – so adding some flavour is common when cooking the backstraps. I cure a pork leg every year and thus have a decent supply of finely sliced jamon that’s been cured for at least 12 months, if not longer. We’re also blessed to have a small cheese-making company nearby that makes some killer cheeses, notably a strong blue cheese that I like to use in this dish. Something strong like a Roquefort or even Gorgonzola would work well.
It’s a delicate meal – rich but not stodgy – and makes a fine starter.