For me, it’s just not Christmas until I’ve boiled something in a pudding basin for far longer than makes any sense, turned it out onto a cake stand and stuck an artificial sprig of holly into the top of it. It has to be done – but it doesn’t have to be the same gluey, boring pudding as you might be used to. This one doesn’t even have fruit – but it’s just as celebratory and, dare I say, even more delicious than the classic plum pudding. It’s a giant, moist, chocolatey, hazelnutty dome of Christmas. I love this with old-school custard.