Come midsummer, when the first of the girolles start to trickle through, I feel happy and content. Aside from porcini, these are my favourite mushrooms – I love their clean, gentle, slightly woody flavour. I often serve this dish with pigeon, as it balances the rich flavour of the meat perfectly and lends a clarity to the final assembly. It works beautifully with beef and veal too. It is also lovely on its own with some good bread, though you may want to increase the quantities below (by half as much again, perhaps).