My very first job the summer I turned 16 was working in the kitchen of a fish stall of Östermalmshallen – a famous covered market selling only the finest produce to the most discerning Stockholmers (and those with the deepest pockets). My job was not particularly glamorous – the first task of each day was to pané hundreds of herring fillets in breadcrumbs. They arrived in boxes of ice and by the time I was finished, my hands would be red raw and completely numb. I remember so well that I was never trusted to season them. Instead, the head chef would come over and douse them in salt, pepper and dill. I would then sandwich the fillets together, ready for frying and finally divvying up into containers. Of course, I had to have a recipe for fried herring here, but instead of a traditional take, I have gone for a fresher twist. Season liberally and at will.