There are dishes in a repertoire that are inspired by a place, igniting memories of wonderful times away. And then there are others which act more as Post-it notes; an edible reminder to yourself that one day, you will make it there. For me, the place is the Amalficoast, and the dish is this. Every time I roast sweet peaches, plumping their bellies with nutmeg-spiced ricotta first, I imagine myself strolling the steep streets of Positano. I may be eating this in my pyjamas at home, but after two bites of this I’m gone.