Roast pork belly with crackling would be on the table of my last supper – I love it. It’s to do with the balance of textures: the salted crunch of the brittle, puffed rind, the meltingly tender open grain of the meat, and the creamy, almost buttery nature of the soft white fat. It’s so deeply savoury and so sedately satisfying to me, I can imagine falling quite happily into a big sleep. This recipe is a little different from a typical roast. Simple boiled new potatoes and fresh broad-bean tops, with lots of herbs and lemon, perfectly balance the rich meat. Buy the best pork you can: free-range or organic pork, particularly from rare or traditional breeds of pig, will be much more delicious and characterful.