My good foodie mate Evelyn, who lives in KL, takes me out for an evening of gorging at SS2 Market in Petaling Jaya, the best night market in town. It’s only open on Monday night and she reckons I’ll be so full by the time we finish, she’ll be rolling me home. She’s not wrong because, as if SS2 isn’t enough, there’s a nearby food street called Wai Sek Kai and it’s heaving as well. There are food stalls in every direction and so many different dishes it’s all a bit overwhelming. Right when I think I can’t possibly cram another mouthful in, we spot a wok-full of intriguing parcels that turn out to be this dish. The chicken smells so good we can’t resist. Sealed in baking paper (with seasonings Evelyn tells me are strictly Top Secret), then baked in layers of salt inside big, covered woks, it’s similar in principal to the classic clay-baked beggar’s chicken. Except much simpler to make. The salt keeps all the moisture in the meat and accentuates the flavours brilliantly. This is an easy dish to recreate at home and I hope you try it.