Roast goose with confit carrots, kimchi pears and coriander

Roast goose with confit carrots, kimchi pears and coriander

By
From
Marque
Serves
10
Photographer
Stuart Scott

On a trip to Seoul in 2006, I was embarrassed to find that there were around a hundred different versions of kimchi; I only knew of one. I think I ate 50 different types on that trip. The heat, lactic sourness and crunch were instantly appealing to me. The Koreans celebrate the crunch by chewing with mouths agape: the better the kimchi, the louder the sound.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Break down a medium young goose. This recipe only calls for the use of the two large breasts – carefully carve them from the bird and trim off any silver skin. Reserve the legs for another use. Reserve the carcass, wings and trimmings to make the stock. To make the brine, mix together 120 grams table salt, 60 grams brown sugar and 1 litre water until the salt and sugar dissolve. Soak the goose breasts in the brine and refrigerate for 1 hour.
  2. Remove the goose breasts from the brine and rinse thoroughly under running water to remove the excess brine. Lay the goose breasts on cloth-lined trays and refrigerate, uncovered, for 2 hours to dry the surface of the skin.
  3. Deeply score the skin of the goose in a 1 centimetre diamond pattern, being careful not to cut into the flesh. Seal the breasts in separate sous-vide bags and compress with moderate pressure. Cook in a water bath at 57°C for 1½ hours. Remove from the water bath and chill them quickly in a blast chiller or an ice bath, then refrigerate until required.
  4. Preheat the oven to 200°C. Chop the goose carcass, wings and trimmings into small pieces and put in a roasting tin. Bake for 30 minutes, then turn the bones over and reduce the oven temperature to 150°C. Cook for a further 1½ to 2 hours, or until golden. Meanwhile, peel and juice 5 kilograms carrots. Remove the goose bones from the pan and place in a stockpot. Deglaze the roasting tin on the stovetop with 2 glasses dry Riesling. Scrape the tin and reduce by half. Add the liquid to the stockpot along with the carrot juice. Add 1 teaspoon white peppercorns. Bring to a simmer and cook gently for 3 hours. Strain and skim any fat. Return to the pan and reduce the liquid until it reaches a saucing consistency.
  5. Peel 1.5 kilograms carrots, cut them in half lengthwise and square off the sides. The trick to cutting carrots into even-sized 1 centimetre dice is not only a sharp knife and a sturdy cutting board, but to make sure the carrots come to room temperature before working with them – this prevents the carrots from splitting. Slice the carrots into 1 centimetre slices and cut the slices into 1 centimetre wide batons. Collect five batons at a time and cut the batons into 1 centimetre dice. Save all the trimmings and any uneven carrot dice for the carrot jus.
  6. To make the carrot confit, melt 300 grams goose fat in a saucepan. Toast and crush 3 apricot kernels and 1 teaspoon coriander seeds and tie them in a small muslin bag and add to the melted goose fat. Heat the fat to 85°C and cook the carrots in the fat for at least 3 hours, or until they have slightly collapsed but are not too soft . The sugar from the carrots will caramelise lightly and will also absorb the bitter almond-like essence from the apricot kernels, leaving the carrots to taste like apricot. Strain the carrots and leave them to cool down.
  7. Peel 3 ripe Williams pears and use the small end of a parisienne scoop to cut 1 centimetre balls from the pears. Combine 2 tablespoons kimchi paste and 1 tablespoon water and lightly whisk 1 tablespoon canola oil into it to emulsify it slightly. Toss the pear balls in half of the sauce and reserve the remainder. Refrigerate until required.
  8. Peel 10 cocktail or dwarf Corella pears and split them in half lengthwise. Cut out the seed section with a parisienne scoop and remove the core on the base of the fruit, but keep the stalks on for presentation. Toss the cocktail pears in a bowl with the remaining kimchi until they are nicely coated. Seal them in sous-vide bags with moderate pressure and cook them in a water bath at 85°C for 20 minutes. Remove from the water bath and chill them quickly in a blast chiller or an ice bath, then refrigerate until required.
  9. Juice 600 grams oranges and strain 300 millilitres of the juice into a saucepan. Add 3 grams Kappa (Texturas) and whisk well to combine. Bring the juice to the boil while stirring, then pour into a large container to cool down. Refrigerate until cold and firmed into a stiff gel. Scoop the gel into a blender and purée until smooth. Pass through a chinoise and bottle until serving. Refrigerate until required.
  10. Peel four finger-sized heirloom carrots – we usually use purple and yellow for the strong contrasts they bring to the plate. Using a mandolin, carefully slice the carrots into very thin, even, round slices into iced water, keeping the different colours separate. The cold water will make the carrots curl slightly.
  11. Slice 4 sheets of dried nori into 5 centimetre ribbons, and using a sturdy cutting board and sharp chef ’s knife, slice the seaweed into chiffonnade. Store in an airtight container until required.
  12. Pick through 1 punnet baby coriander for decorative leaves. Keep the leaves in cold water until serving – this will prevent them bruising or wilting.
  13. Reheat the breasts in a water bath at 60°C for 15 minutes. Remove from the bags and let the breasts dry slightly then sear, skin side down, in a hot frying pan – either use two pans or cook the breasts one at a time. A lot of fat will render from the breasts; pour it away as it collects. Make sure the skin becomes evenly brown before turning it over to give the bone side an even colour as well. Let the breasts rest for a few minutes then carve them into five portions per breast.
  14. Reheat the carrot confit by heating a little bit of carrot jus in a pot, add the carrots and a knob of butter. Gently stir the carrots but be careful not to mash them.
  15. The pear balls only have to be at room temperature before serving. Remove them from the bags, reserving the cooking liquid. Bring some of the liquid to the boil in a small saucepan, then move the pan to the side of the stove or over very low heat. Add the pears, put a lid on the pot and let them heat through slowly until they reach room temperature.
  16. To serve, place a slice of goose breast on each serving plate. Arrange the cocktail pears and the pear balls around the breast. Spoon some of the goose sauce over the breast. Garnish with a sprinkle of nori, a dab of orange gel, the carrot curls, the carrot confit and the baby coriander.
Tags:
Marque
Mark
Best
Pei
Modern
restaurant
chef
high
end
fine
dining
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