A Year of Practiculture
Rohan Anderson & Kate Berry

I’ve been making this meal for years but I’ve never really bothered to photograph it. There are two main reasons for this. First, I think it’s just plain ugly – there, I said it. Most stroganoff just looks like a pile of blurp, or is that just me? It’s definitely nothing special to look at, and pretty uninspiring to photograph! Secondly, every time I make it, I’m usually busy making love sounds while I shove it in my mouth. It’s one of those meals you can cook for years and years and it never gets dull. Sure, it’s a bit naughty, but hell, life’s short and I want to enjoy myself. Don’t you?

There are variations to this meal, and I can’t help making them all the time. You can switch the cured meat from chorizo to salamanca, sopressa, pancetta, jamon – anything that’s going to share its flavour with the taste sponges that are saffron milkcaps (pine mushrooms). You can also make this with other wild mushrooms, such as field or horse mushrooms. And you can switch your booze from red to white, and from fino to Pedro Ximénez. It all works equally well. It’s like a Rubik’s cube – so many combinations it can become mind-boggling. I even once tried adding a squeeze of lemon juice at the end, and it totally worked. I know there’ll be some purist mushroom-lovers out there who’ll think this is diabolical and I’m adding too many flavours, blah, blah, but that’s the beauty of cooking at home – you can shut the door and keep the turkeys out of your house!

This is the combination I tend to make for those frosty mornings in autumn when I need the kind of spiritual-happiness injection that a good feed like this can provide.


Quantity Ingredient
1-2 tablespoons olive oil
6-8 large sage leaves
5-10 mushrooms, (I use saffron milkcaps/pine mushrooms)
2-3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 jalapeno chillies, finely chopped, (optional)
50g My chorizo, sliced
a few sprigs thyme, leaves picked, plus extra sprigs to garnish
1 tablespoon fino sherry
1 heaped tablespoon mascarpone
salt, to taste
pepper, to taste
sourdough, toasted, to serve


  1. Heat a little olive oil in a cast iron frying pan over medium–high heat with half the sage leaves. Slice the remaining sage leaves and set aside.
  2. While that’s warming up, discard the stems from the mushrooms then slice up the caps. Into the pan they go, then cook them for a few minutes until they start to release their moisture. Toss in the garlic, chilli (if using) and chorizo, followed by the thyme and the sliced sage leaves.
  3. After few more minutes of sizzling, splash in a glug of sherry and toss it through – the mushrooms will soak up that flavour pretty quickly. Now add a naughty dollop of the mascarpone and a splash of water to make it all gravy-like.
  4. Season lightly to taste, then serve on sourdough toast garnished with a thyme sprig.
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