Thanks to Nigella Lawson, through two of her awesome books (Forever Summer and Nigellissima), I have learned that this is how they eat their ice cream in the South of Italy – stuffed into a brioche bun, like an ice cream burger. Chocolate–hazelnut spread is actually an Italian ingredient, based on the classic gianduja paste, which originated in Piemonte. In this glorious midnight-munch, the north and the south finally come together. I try to channel a Sophia Loren-type 1960s Italian babe whenever I eat these, with winged eye-liner and big hair. But I’m going to be honest, that’s mostly in my imagination. The reality is much stickier.